If I Were Going...: Midwest Adventure: Lake Bemidji

We took a little detour to Lake Bemidji, Minnesota, because, why not?

First, I gotta say, I love all the Anishinabe/Ojibwe names with the Js, Is, Ses and OSHes. They just look so cool (Okoboji, Winnibigoshish, Oshgosh, Minnesota, Mississippi). So, Bemidji already had something going for it.

Plus, it's the land of Paul Bunyan* and his blue ox, Babe. This was our first (but not last) encounter with towns in Minnesota featuring giant statues of their namesakes or claim to fame. It seems to be a thing.

Paul Bunyan is a square (so's his Ox)

Anyway, the town of Lake Bemidji sits right on the lake (one of the larger Minnesota's 10,000 lakes).

Bemidji is the curling capital of the U.S.A.

The campground at Lake Bemidji State Park is around the other side of the lake. Unlike Moose Lake, Bemidji was hopping. It's a much bigger park (and a much bigger lake) and there were lots of campers -- many large family groups, presumably enjoying the end of the season before everyone goes back to school.

A beautiful lake

Fortunately, it wasn't so full that we couldn't get a campsite. I immediately knew I would like it there because, as we were waiting to get a camping site, I saw lots of critters at feeders by the check-in station, including female Ruby-throated Hummingbirds …

Where are the males? I never see them anywhere!

A Red-breasted Nuthatch …

The first -- and only -- one I have ever seen

... a Black-capped Chickadee ...

So cute

… and lots of adorable little Red Squirrels ...

This Red Squirrel is actually red

Our campsite was also wooded. A bit less secluded than Moose Lake, but nice, nonetheless. We set up and -- as we do -- immediately set out to explore.

One of the interesting things about Lake Bemidji is that the Mississippi River runs right through it. In fact, its Anishinabe /Ojibwe name, "Bemiji-gau-maug," means "cutting sideways through or diagonally." Early trader records identify Lake Bemidji as "Lac Traverse," which is French for diagonal lake.

Map: weatherforecast.com

In the late 1800s, Europeans came to the area to harvest white and Norway pine and, at the turn of the century when logging was at its peak, the lumber mills on the south shore of Lake Bemidji were the center of logging in the nation. But, a few areas within the park boundaries were still virgin when the government purchased the land, thus preserving a remnant of the original forest. In 1923, the Minnesota Legislature established the state park. Most of the forest we saw was rather new growth. I don't know why there are bears on the park sign; I don't think the park actually has bears.

Just a pretend bear

After we settled in, I took a hike along the Rocky Point Trail. It traverses a rather dense forest comprising pine, birch and hardwoods.

Unfortunately, lots of mosquitoes, too

It was steamy and the overlook was pretty, but not spectacular.

Meh!

Plus, although I saw a lot of birds, most were the type that flits about, making them hard to photograph. I did get a White-breasted Nuthatch ...

Climbing up

... and an Eastern Kingbird ...

A pretty little bird

Plus, a chattering Gray Squirrel ...

Most of what you hear in forests is squirrels telling you they don't appreciate your presence

I walked to the end of the trail without seeing much and then headed back. We had seen some signs indicating that there are six types of owls in the area, so I decided to start scanning the treetops. I picked a spot, stopped and looked up and, surprise, I saw two Bald Eagles – an adult and a juvenile – right above me in a tree.

Just right there

It was one of the closest eagles sightings I had ever had and, most definitely, the best since I got my new 150-600mm lens. I took pictures until the juvenile (from the looks of it, this year’s fledge) flew away.

Really close

Then, the adult moved to a father branch, making it difficult to see. But, I spent quite a bit of time taking pictures of these magnificent birds that were about 50 ft. or less away.

Hiding in plain sight

When I walked ten steps in either direction, I couldn’t see the remaining Eagle. I wonder what made me look up at the moment I did. I also wonder -- as I often do -- what else did I miss because I didn't look the right way at the right time.

Dinner and drinks

After the hike, I cleaned up and we went out to dinner at Ruttger's Birchmont Lodge;

The Lodge is a really old-school-looking resort on the lake's edge. The weather was perfect for al fresco dining, so we sat on the patio looking at the lake.

Kids were playing in the water on a cool-looking inflatable climbing wall, multi-generational families were dining together leading me to believe that they had been coming there for multiple generations and the place had a very congenial, life-is-good feel.

The weather was perfect for al fresco dining, so we sat on the patio looking at the lake.

The menu had a history of the resort on it. The resort started as a simple fish camp 115 years ago and grew over the years. The owners also have resorts in Florida.

A nice evening; Photos by Scott Stevens

We both ordered pan-fried walleye, fresh green beans and wild rice, 'cause that's what you do in Minnesota.

Delicious; Photos by Scott Stevens

After dinner, we went back to the park and went down to the lake for sunset. That's the time to see these lakes.

Beautiful ending to a nice day

Paul Bunyan

A cheesy statue

*Oh, and about Paul Bunyan ... The stories, often about Paul and Babe triumphing over absurdly severe weather or fearsome forest critters, were told in lumber camp bunkhouses in the late 1800s and early 1900s.

The earliest printed reference to Paul and Babe was in 1904 in the Duluth News Tribune.

The stories were popularized (and expanded) by freelance writer William B. Laughead in a 1916 promotional pamphlet for the Red River Lumber Company.

He's big compared to Babe

Laughead's Paul Bunyan was not faithful to original folktales. Among other things, Laughead gave the name "Babe" to the ox, increased Paul Bunyan's height to impossible proportions and created the first pictorial representation of Bunyan.

Throughout the better part of the century, Paul Bunyan's name and image continued to be used to promote products, cities (such as Lake Bemidji) and services. Giant statues of Paul Bunyan were erected to promote local businesses and tourism. Many were produced from the 1960s through the 1970s by International Fiberglass as part of their "Muffler Men" series of giant fiberglass sculptures.

The Bemidji statues, however, are much older -- and made of concrete. They was erected by the townspeople in 1937 and Paul stands 18 feet tall. Lake Bemidji claims to be the birthplace of Paul Bunyan.

Bunyan's name might be from the Québécois expression "bon yenne!" expressing surprise or astonishment. The English surname Bunyan is derived from the same root as bunion in the Old French bugne, referring to a large lump or swelling.

Scott provides perspective on the statues' size

Black Duck and Grand Falls
We headed out the next morning for our first real destination -- Voyageurs National Park in northern Minnesota. On the way, we saw another giant statue -- this time a black Duck in Black Duck.

The just love big statues

We also stopped by Big Falls, which is near Grand Falls. The falls aren't that big or grand (at least in terms of vertical drop), but they do go on a bit and apparently lead to some Class IV rapids.

They are interesting because the tannin in the river makes them look black and tan when you look in one direction ...