Big Circle - Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument

So, after dawdling at White Sands National Monument, I was on the fast track home, taking a route that avoided Albuquerque because it just so happened it was the weekend of the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta.

I had just passed through some construction when I saw a sign for a National Monument that I had never visited. I debated for a few seconds. Then, I made the hardest fast left ever. I was on my way to Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument, which has three sites and a Visitors Center. 

I made it to two of the sites - Gran Quivira and Quarai 

The area was named Gran Quivira National Monument in 1909. In 1980 it was enlarged and, in 1981, two New Mexico State Monuments were absorbed into it. It became Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument in 1988.

Impressive structures

Early in the 17th century, Spanish Franciscans moved to the area, which they named the Salinas District, to convert the indigenous people. They built (or rather had the native peoples build) large churches, similar in style to European churches by very much southwestern in materials. 

A big structure

By the late 1670s, neither Puebloans nor Spaniards remained in the area.

The two sites I visited were quite different. Gran Quivira has very visible ruins of a massive village of Tiwa and Tompiro language-speaking Puebloans, who inhabited this remote area of central New Mexico. 

It is estimated that more than 2,000 people lived there at one time

The Ranger (who gave me a personal tour) told me that LIDAR (light radar) has revealed that a second, older Pueblo is underneath the ruins that can be seen. 

Multiple rooms for lots of people

The shared-wall Pueblo was made of stone and adobe and included living quarters, shared facilities, storage areas and kivas. 

Ancient condos

Although the people living there converted to Catholicism, they also continue to worship their ancient gods, which led the friars to destroy many of the kivas.

Kiva

The mission church was quite large and designed to use windows to take advantage of New Mexico's ample sunlight. Although the beams and corbels have been removed, some still exist.

Windows in the wall

Quarai has less visible Pueblo walls, but a much more complete church.

Church

You can, however, see the foundations of the Pueblo.

Foundations

The massive churches required a great deal of labor, which, combined with time spent learning about Christianity and Spanish crafts, occupied most of the native peoples' time. This created strife with local government because the natives had no time to work for them.

The goal of the friars was to prepare the local peoples to become citizens of Spain when the area was annexed. This never happened.

Multiple angles

The Spanish Inquisition was going on during this time and many of the native people were subjected to inquisition. However, records indicate the Salinas friars were far more compassionate than the general reputation of inquisitors. Still, although many Puebloans retained their religion, they kept their worship secret.

As you can see from the pictures, the visit to Salinas Pueblo Missions was on another day of vast, brilliant blue skies. Unlike much of the area, Quarai has large cottonwood trees.

A pretty setting

I didn’t have time to visit Abó, which also has ruins of a church.

A nice end to a great trip. But, it was time to go home.

Trip date: September 24-October 7, 2014