Monday, May 2, 2016

Black Mountain and Asheville

The Stevens "Girls"
Before we headed off for Black Mountain for the “Sassy Stevens” Girls’ Weekend we planned to find some Bears in Cades Cove. After all, I had had great luck the day before.

Yesterday's Bear
Instead we found rain. So much rain that we decided to head on to North Carolina. I am not going to blog about the actual girls’ weekend because, first, I don’t really blog about family interactions and, second, I doubt that anyone would be interested if I did.

Melissa, Melanie, Julie and Caty
But, I will cover a few things.

First, the house was perfect. We found it through HomeAway and it was huge and ridiculously cheap. In fact, it worked out to less than $130 a person for three nights. And, we could have accommodated four more without having to double up in any of the beds!

Second, the view was fabulous – morning, noon and night.

Pretty
Third, we had a great time hanging out together and playing games.

Melissa explains it all
It is nice to get together with family from time to time.

Photo shoot
From a travel blog perspective, there are two things worth mentioning.

First, we ate at a fabulous tapas restaurant called Curate. I wish I had pictures of the sangria, chicken croquettes, patatas bravas, stuffed piquillo peppers, chorizo in potato chips, olives, cheese, albondigas and any other goodies I can’t even remember. But, it was authentic and very tasty.

My, oh, my; Photo: Curate
Second, Caty and I toured the Biltmore Estate. 

Long view of the Biltmore
Originally, the whole group was planning to go, but everyone else decided to shop and drink instead. 

It was just Caty and me on a glorious spring day
The tickets and signs say that photography is not allowed the mansion, so we didn't take cameras. Then, we saw lots of people taking pictures unchallenged. Still, we didn’t, so the only pictures we have to share are of the gardens and the winery.

Beautiful wisteria
The 8,000-acre Biltmore Estate is in Asheville, North Carolina. It features a Château-styled mansion built by George Washington Vanderbilt II between 1889 and 1895 and is the largest privately owned house in the United States, at 178,926 square feet of floor space and 135,280 square feet of living area. It is one of the most prominent remaining examples of the Gilded Age.

It is still owned by one of Vanderbilt's descendants; Photo: Biltmore
Designed by New York architect Richard Morris Hunt, who had previously designed houses for other Vanderbilt family members, the four-story Indiana limestone home has a 375-foot asymmetrically balanced facade with two projecting wings. 

The home's carved decorations include trefoils, flowing tracery, rosettes and at prominent lookouts, gargoyles. The large gargoyles are purely for decoration instead of their normal use to direct water away from a building.

Very ornate
The house has attached stables, a carriage house and a courtyard to protect the house and gardens from the wind. The 12,000-square-foot complex housed Vanderbilt's prized driving horses and the carriage house opposite the stables stored his 20 carriages in addition to any of his guest's carriages. The area now houses stores, a snack bar and a restaurant where we had a delicious lunch.

More great food
Biltmore has a total of 250 rooms, including 33 bedrooms for family and guests, 43 bathrooms, 65 fireplaces, three kitchens and 19th-century novelties such as electric elevators, forced-air heating, centrally controlled clocks, fire alarms and an intercom system. The principal rooms of the house, located on the ground floor, include a winter garden, banquet hall ...

You could have a great dinner party; Photo: Biltmore
... organ gallery, music room, tapestry gallery and library.

The second floor is accessed by the cantilevered 102-step grand staircase spiraling around a four-story, wrought iron chandelier holding 72 light bulbs. The second floor houses a living hall, George Vanderbilt's gilded bedroom ... 

Quite the room; Photo: Biltmore
... his wife's Louis XV-style oval-shaped bedroom and many guest rooms.

The third and fourth floors, which house more guest rooms, are not part of the tour.

The basement houses an indoor 70,000-gallon heated swimming pool (now empty) that had underwater lighting; dressing rooms so that guests did not have to walk through the mansion in their bathing costumes; one of the nation's first bowling alleys in a private residence; and a gymnasium with once state-of-the-art fitness equipment. 

The gym; Photo: Biltmore
It is also the location for the main kitchen ... 

You need a big kitchen for a big dining room; Photo: Biltmore
... pastry kitchen, rotisserie kitchen, walk-in refrigerators, servants' dining hall, laundry rooms and additional bedrooms for staff.

Vanderbilt employed landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted (he also designed Central Park) to design the grounds. He created a park surrounding the house and established farms along the river. 

Spring flowers
He also replanted the rest of the grounds as a commercial timber forest. The first forestry education program in the U.S., the Biltmore Forest School, was established on the estate grounds in 1898.

The intentionally rustic three-mile approach road winds through natural-looking foliage and shrubbery to provide a relaxing journey for guests. There are also 75 acres of formal gardens that include an Italian formal garden, a walled garden, a shrub and rose garden, fountains and a conservatory ... 

Conservatory
... with individual rooms for palms and orchids.

Hothouse flowers
Across the estate is the former diary barn, which has been converted into a winery. 

Winery
The area also features hotels and restaurants.

The house was built between 1889 and 1896; Photo: Biltmore
In order to facilitate such a large project, a woodworking factory and brick kiln, which produced 32,000 bricks a day, were built onsite. 

A three-mile railroad spur was constructed to bring in materials; Photo: Biltmore
Construction on the main house required more than 1,000 workers and 60 stonemasons.

Vanderbilt went on extensive buying-trips overseas where he purchased thousands of furnishings including tapestries, carpets, prints, linens and decorative objects dating between the 15th and the 19th century. The house officially opened on Christmas Eve 1895. Vanderbilt married Edith Stuyvesant Dresser in 1898 and their only child, Cornelia Stuyvesant Vanderbilt, was born at the estate in 1900, and grew up there.

Driven by cost of managing the estate, Vanderbilt agreed to sell 87,000 acres to the federal government. After he died unexpectedly in 1914 of complications from an emergency appendectomy, his widow completed the sale to carry out her husband's wish that the land remain unaltered and that property became the nucleus of the Pisgah National Forest. She intermittently occupied the house until the marriage of her daughter 

Cornelia Vanderbilt marries John Francis Amherst Cecil in 1924; Photo: Biltmore
The Cecils went on to have two sons who were born in the same room as their mother.

In an attempt to bolster the estate's financial situation during the Great Depression, Cornelia and her husband opened Biltmore to the public in March 1930 at the request of the City of Asheville, which hoped the attraction would revitalize the area with tourism. When the Cecils divorced, Cornelia left the estate and John remained until his death in 1954. Their eldest son George Henry Vanderbilt Cecil occupied rooms in the wing until 1956. At this point Biltmore House ceased to be a family residence and has continued to be operated as a historic house museum, with increasing portions of the house opened to viewing. 

It is used for concerts, special programs and weddings, too.

A Biltmore wedding; Photo: Biltmore
We overheard a Biltmore employee saying that the owners do have a separate house on the property.

William A. V. Cecil, Sr. returned to the estate in 1960 and joined his brother to manage the estate and make it a profitable and self-sustaining enterprise like his grandfather envisioned. He eventually inherited the estate upon the death of his mother in 1976, while his brother George inherited the then-more-profitable dairy farm. In 1995, while celebrating the 100th anniversary of the estate, Cecil turned over control of the company to his son, William A.V. Cecil, Jr.

The estate was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1964, and remains a major tourist attraction with almost 1 million visitors each year.

On the grounds
During our visit, the Biltmore was also showing a collection of gowns -- many of them wedding gowns from motion pictures. To complement the collection, many parts of the estate were decorated as for a wedding.

Worn by Helena Bonham Carter in Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein, 1994; Photo: Biltmore
If you are planning to visit the Biltmore, beware. The website can be confusing. It costs $50 to get into the house and grounds. Tours are additional. So, don't be fooled by the $17 tour price -- that's on top of the $50. Reservations are essential on some days, so do check before you go. Parts of the house are disability accessible, but not all of it is.


Trip date: April 18-26, 2016

Sunday, May 1, 2016

The Hike Down -- and the Park

Having had an enjoyable two-day stay at the LeConte Lodge on top of Mt. LeConte in Great Smoky Mountains National Park, my brother, Mark Pedretty, and I prepared for our hike down.

The Lodge
I didn’t notice until we posed for a farewell shot in front of the Dining Hall that that they change the date on the sign everyday. 

That’s a really nice touch; Mark, left; me, right
Yikes!
We had taken the Alum Cave Bluff Trail (5.5 miles, 2,560-foot elevation gain) up and were now taking the Rainbow Falls Trail (6.5 miles, 3,820-foot elevation loss) down.

The trailhead had a sign warning that, during heavy rains, the trail could be impassable. Rain had originally been forecast for the day. But, we had nice weather – cool turning to warm; dry slowly getting a bit more humid. We did pass several spots that were easy to imagine as impassable, including a dry waterfall. And, there was a lot more water on this trail than on the Alum cave Bluffs Trail.

Rain and water are common in the Smokies: Photo: Mark Pedretty
As we went down, I was amazed at how much more spring-like the area had become since we hiked up. Buds were bursting, trees were flowering and the gray was going away. 

Two days makes a big difference in April
Knowing that a trail that steep can be tough on knees, we took it slow. We had a great time photographing  a variety of plants and flowers. You may be aware of Mark’s interest in photographing flowers, something he started when, as a mail carrier, he noticed that many people’s yards featured a wide variety of tiny (often wild) blooms. He snaps these photos with his cell phone and posts the remarkable shots on Facebook. 

Capturing some tiny plants
So, it wasn’t surprising that he was both interested in and knowledgeable about the flowers along the route ...

Mark can ID them all
Even the weird ones: Photo: Mark Pedretty
Besides flowers, we didn’t see much else – including people. I was really struck by how few folks we saw anywhere, but especially on the trails. Rainbow Falls, beyond its signature falls, which are on the lower part of the trail, isn’t one of the more popular up or down hikes to the Lodge. It was lovely and well maintained, if a bit rocky. So, it was a pleasant morning hike.

We had the almost trail to ourselves
As we went down, however the knees screamed and the packs tugged. So, we were very happy when we reached Rainbow Falls, which is only 2.7 miles from the trailhead. This 80-foot fall, the only one in GSMNP that you can walk behind, is a popular day-hike destination and it was here that we encountered people. 

Rainbow Falls
Mainly people who have no clue about hiking or hiking etiquette. There were, of course, many people climbing on the rocks up to the falls, ensuring a spot in all my photos (fortunately Photoshop banished them quickly from most of my shots). If only they would eschew neon colors!

Mark and I didn’t climb up to the falls for a couple of reasons. First, I am not a big fan of rock clambering, especially if the rocks are wet. Second, my knees really didn’t want to add activity to the hike. Third, I don’t like to ruin other peoples’ pictures. And, fourth, I like to look at falls, not be in them.

The falls
We also encountered a nicely dressed gentleman from the Midwest who said that he had hiked up with a “tripod instead of water” and that someone had given him a bottle of water. Who hikes without water? He also said that they day before, he had done a long hike and miscalculated how long it would take (“I’m from Indiana, we don’t have mountains to climb”), so he got back in the dark with only a headlamp with dicey batteries. That’s why my pack is full of emergency supplies and I always allow more time than it should take.

On my way down; Photo: Mark Pedretty
At the falls, we stopped for lunch (threatened briefly by a marauding squirrel). We took off our boots and briefly immersed our feet in the chilly, but not freezing, water ..

A nice break
... and generally enjoyed the play of sunlight on the water, the many mini-falls and the sound of flowing water.

So pretty
Not wanting to get too relaxed, we shouldered our packs and headed down. This last part was the most difficult – probably because our knees and feet were getting fatigued and because it had gotten warmer and stickier. 

Rocky
Smoky Mountain trails are tough because they contain lots of rocky obstacles. You have to be constantly on the lookout to prevent twisted ankles or falls.

As we hiked down, we encountered groups taking smoking breaks (ugh – we had to hike around), groups playing loud music (what about the sanctity of nature?), people wearing inappropriate shoes (Mom, you had on sneakers, why did you allow your daughter to wear sandals?) and kids tearing up the landscape by taking shortcuts. But, there were a number of small waterfalls and moments of beauty, too.

More falls
During the last mile and a half, we were pretty much over it. Then, we encountered a group of ladies who were on a wildflower hike that was part of a two-day wildflower event based in Gatlinburg. They had an ancient guide to flowers and helped us with some identification. In turn, Mark showed them a tiny Showy Orchid that was hiding under a lip of rock. 

Orchids
They were very excited about that. They told us the event featured 131 hikes, which, based on how far they went before they turned back, were probably all in the half-mile to mile range.

During our flower break I tried to squat down to photograph a flower only to discover my knees were so swollen that couldn’t bend them that much (typical; I knew it would go away within 48 hours). So, I figured we needed to end the madness, and we plugged on to the end of the trail, which was pretty close.

A note about something that surprised us – despite a pretty tough hike up and down and three days without a shower (just a little hot water washbasin clean-up), we ended the hike fairly fresh-feeling. I guess that’s the advantage of an early spring hike. The flower ladies took this shot near the end of the trail.

The Flower Ladies took our photo
I always look back and wonder why I didn’t photograph “documenting” shots – like the end of the trail, signs, etc. – for my blog. I am getting better, but I still forget. 

I feel like I am taking pictures all the time
After the Hike
Anyway, we drove to retrieve our car at the Alum Cave Bluff Trailhead and, would you believe it, saw a Bear on the way. 

A pretty one
Yes, three days in the wilderness and a Bear on the roadside! It never fails. 

This one created a real Bear jam!
Even with a Bear, Mark got distracted by flowers
After cleaning up back at the condo, we went out for a late dinner at Park Grill, where we had an excellent smoked trout appetizer and I had panko-crusted trout and Mark had a steak. We ended the meal with hot blackberry cobbler. Yummy.  Our server restored our faith in southern hospitality (pretty lacking at the Dunkin’ Donuts). He was great!

On the way back from dinner, we tested an alternate route to the condo and, finally, found the least scary, easiest way to get there. Only took three days of getting lost and driving up and down in first gear!

Then, we slept very well. 

We were awakened by our faithful Eastern Towhee
Mark had some time before he had to head back to Atlanta to catch his flight home, so we headed out the next morning. Of course, he had to start with his he-man breakfast. We found it at the Riverstone Restaurant in Townsend. 

Mark was very happy
Great Smoky Mountains
As we came back into the Smokies, we encountered one of my photography targets – a beautiful cardinal in a fresh spring tree. I wish we had cardinals in Colorado. 

They are so beautiful
Then, off the Cades Cove to attempt to find a good Bear. 

Jackpot!!!
It was actually the same Bear I had seen the first day, but this time it was hanging around the road and creating a Bear jam. 

The Bear started out in a field just looking around
The ranger had to clear a path among the watchers for the Bear to cross the road.

Here he comes
I had time to try out the 600mm lens on the tripod and was rewarded for the effort.

Shaking it off
How did I know it was the same Bear? Its ear was tagged with a red plastic strip. The Ranger told us that they don’t actually “tag” Bears in the Smokies, but they had marked this one the previous year because it was frequently around people and they were keeping an eye on it. Here’s what the strip looks like. 

Tagged
I used Photoshop to remove the tag from my good shots
We stayed for quite awhile, following the Bear as it chomped its way through the fresh spring growth.

Hungry Bear
I am certainly glad I bought the 600mm lens and schlepped it all the way to the Smokies (and, no, I did not carry it up the mountain).

The best one
Mark shot some video, as well. Click here and here.

A big bite (or yawn)
After photographing the Bear, we moved on to the rest of Cades Cove and then Mark headed out for Atlanta.

Thanks, Mark! It was great hiking with you
Before picking Caty up at the airport that evening, I drove back into the park, looking for more animals.

I quickly visited the Little Greenbrier School off of Wears Valley Road behind Metcalf Bottoms Picnic Area. It was down a very narrow, winding road that would have required one car to back up if it encountered another. Luckily, I didn’t. 

Built in 1882, the Little Greenbrier School functioned as the community school until 1936 and served part of the time as a house of worship for a Primitive Baptist church.

Little Greenbrier School
I didn’t see any more Bears, but I did photograph more flowers ...

Spring was further along down here
and critters …

European Honeybee
Carolina Chickadee and a Tufted Titmouse
White-tailed Deer
Coyote – the first I have ever seen in the Smokies
After the quick drive through, I headed to the airport to pick up Caty. This time, I drove through Townsend rather than Pigeon Forge. It was sooooo much better, even at rush hour. We had a late dinner at the Cherokee Grill, another nice restaurant in Gatlinburg, and then headed back up to the condo (using the new route).

As we left the restaurant, it started to rain – foreshadowing for our next day.


Trip date: April 18-26, 2016