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| France for our anniversary |
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| French vineyards; Left photo: Scott Stevens |
Here is the basic plan that I researched and booked before we left (that's an important distinction, as you will see later):
Sept. 4-5: Fly overnight to Paris and stay on Île Saint-Louis
Sept. 5-7: Explore Paris, including visiting the Arc de Triomphe and the Louvre, viewing the Eiffel Tower from Montparnasse and attending a concert
Sept 8: Pick up a car and drive to Mont-Saint-Michel
Sept. 9: Explore Mont-Saint-Michel
Sept. 10: Drive through the Loire Valley and Visit Château de Chambord
Sept. 11: Drive to Bordeaux and tour the Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion Winery (this was a late add based on a specific request from Scott)
Sept. 12: Drive to Lourdes, exploring Pyrénées National Park on the way (originally we were going straight from Chambord to the Pyrénées for two nights)
Sept. 13: Explore Pyrénées National Park and drive to Andorra
Sept. 14: Explore Andorra, including Mirador Roc Del Quer and the Tibetan Bridge
Sept. 15: Drive to Camargue National Park
Sept 16: Explore Camargue National Park, a local ornithological park and Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer
Sept. 17: Drive to Provence, visit the Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque and a couple of hillside cities; stay in Avignon
Sept. 18: Chateauneuf du Pape winery tour, explore Provence from Avignon
Sept. 19: Drive to Nice
Sept. 20-21: Explore the Côte d'Azur
Sept, 22: Drive to Chamonix
Sept. 23: Explore Chamonix, including taking a cable car to Aiguille de Midi and a cog railroad to Monenvers
Sept. 24: Drive to and explore Strasbourg
Sept. 25: Drive to Charles de Gaulle Airport and spend the night (possibly going to Luxembourg on the way)
Sept. 26: Fly home
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| Original plan |
This trip fundamentally circumnavigated France, hitting a wide variety of locations. Some destinations were places I had wanted to visit for years: Loire Valley, Pyrénées, Provence, Chamonix. Some I found out about while researching the trip: especially Camargue, which allegedly had both wild horses and Flamingos!
We sort of did the itinerary, with (as usual) some changes once we got to France. I’ll hit the changes as I talk about the trip.
About France
Let me tell you a little about the country we were going to spend the next three weeks circumnavigating (because, for some reason, most of out big trips circle the perimeter of a nation).
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| The French flag |
France, officially the French Republic, is located primarily in Western Europe but also includes overseas regions and territories in the Americas and the Atlantic, Pacific and Indian Oceans. Metropolitan France, our destination, shares borders (a few of which we crossed or visited in our travels) with Belgium and Luxembourg to the north, Germany to the northeast, Switzerland to the east, Italy and Monaco to the southeast, Andorra and Spain to the south and a maritime border with the United Kingdom to the northwest.
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| The border between France and Spain |
Metropolitan France’s population is 66 million. Paris is the capital, largest city and main cultural and commercial center; other major urban areas include Marseille, Lyon, Toulouse, Lille, Bordeaux, Strasbourg, Nantes and Nice.
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| Strasbourg, France |
Human habitation in France goes way, way back. Neanderthals occupied the region but were slowly replaced by Homo Sapiens around 35,000 BC. Cave paintings in the Dordogne and the Pyrénées have been dated to 18,000 BC. At the end of the Last Glacial Period in 10,000 BC, the climate became milder and, from approximately 7,000 BC, wandering tribes began to settle. In the Neolithic era, people began working metal, initially gold, copper and bronze, then later iron.
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| 7th Century BC figure, the Louvre |
Around 390 BC, the Gauls besieged. The Romans and Gauls remained adversaries for centuries. Around 125 BC, south Gaul was conquered by the Romans, who called the region Provincia Nostra, which evolved into Provence. Julius Caesar finished the job and took all of France in 52 BC; the land was then referred to as Gaul.
In 250-290 AD, Gaul’s fortified borders were repeatedly attacked by barbarians. The situation improved in the first half of the 4th Century, a period of revival and prosperity. In 312, Emperor Constantine I converted to Christianity. Then, in the 5th Century, the barbarian invasions resumed. Teutonic tribes invaded the region, the Visigoths settling in the southwest, the Burgundians along the Rhine River Valley and the Franks in the north.
It was the Germanic Franks who, ultimately, gave the country its name. But, the Romans gave it its language.
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| Hilltop villages offered protection; but this in the French Alps is extreme |
In the Early Middle Ages, Germanic Franks formed the Kingdom of Francia, which became the heartland of the Carolingian Empire. The Treaty of Verdun of 843 partitioned the empire, with West Francia evolving into the Kingdom of France, which was a powerful but decentralized feudal kingdom. From the mid-14th to the mid-15th Centuries, France was plunged into a dynastic conflict with England known as the Hundred Years' War.
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| Swordfight, Château de Chambord |
This little tidbit is interesting for anyone without deep knowledge of the Catholic Church: From 1309 to 1376, seven successive popes resided in Avignon instead of Rome. At the time, Avignon was in the Kingdom of Arles in the Holy Roman Empire, but is now part of France. This “Avignon Papacy” came about because Pope Boniface VIII denied a request from King Philip IV of France to use Church finances to pay war expenses. Boniface issued a declaration saying that every human must be subject to the Roman pontiff. Philip IV fired back, calling the Pope “conceited.” The Pope responded by attempting to excommunicate the King. So, Philip sent some Italian allies to the papal residence. They beat Boniface badly and he died shortly thereafter.
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| Religion shaped French history; this is a carved panel in Strasbourg Cathedral |
Seven popes, all French, reigned at Avignon under the influence of the French Crown. In 1376-77, Gregory XI abandoned Avignon and moved his court to Rome. After Gregory's death in 1378, deteriorating relations between his successor, Urban VI, and a faction of cardinals gave rise to the “Western Schism.” This started a second line of Avignon popes, subsequently regarded as illegitimate (AKA ”antipopes”). The schism ended in 1417.
In the 16th Century, the French Renaissance saw culture flourish and a French colonial empire rise.
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| 16th Century Château de Chambord |
Internally, France was dominated by conflict with the House of Habsburg (Austria) and the French Wars of Religion between Catholics and Huguenots. France was successful in the Thirty Years' War, also about religion, and further increased its influence during the reign of Louis XIV.
The French Revolution of 1789 overthrew the royals and produced the Declaration of the Rights of Man, which expresses the nation's ideals to this day.
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| Liberty Leading the People (Eugène Delacroix), Louvre; Photo: Scott Stevens |
France reached its political and military zenith in the early 19th Century under Napoleon Bonaparte, subjugating part of continental Europe and establishing the First French Empire.
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| Ultimate Belle Epoch; Photo: Scott Stevens |
That was succeeded by the Second French Empire upon Napoleon III's takeover. His empire collapsed during the Franco-Prussian War in 1870.
This led to the establishment of the Third French Republic and subsequent decades saw a period of economic prosperity and cultural and scientific flourishing known as the Belle Époque.
There will not be a quiz.
France was one of the major participants of World War I, from which it emerged victorious at great human and economic cost.
It was among the Allied powers of World War II, but it surrendered and was occupied by Germany in 1940.
Following its liberation in 1944, the short-lived Fourth Republic was established and later dissolved in the course of defeat in the Algerian War. The current Fifth Republic was formed in 1958 by Charles de Gaulle. Algeria and most French colonies became independent in the 1960s, with the majority retaining close economic and military ties with France.
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| The Louvre is a popular destination |
France enjoys a number of superlatives and Paris is considered one of the world's greatest cities. Paris is certainly considered one of the world's most romantic places. The country is the world's leading tourist destination, receiving 100 million foreign visitors in 2023, but, it ranks third in actual tourism because visits tend to be short.
Paris is the most popular destination in the country, followed by the Riviera (we visited both).
France has a high standard of living, its economy ranks among the largest in the world, it is one of the five permanent members of the UN Security Council, a member of the European Union and the eurozone, as well as a key member of the Group of Seven and NATO.
The country has a diverse environment. The north central part is dominated by the Paris Basin, which is a broad shallow bowl with fertile agricultural land. The Normandy coast to the northwest has high chalk cliffs, while the Brittany coast (the peninsula to the west) is highly indented with deep valleys leading to sea. The Biscay coast to the southwest is marked by flat, sandy beaches. Mountains, including the Massif Central and the Pyrénées, are found in the south and the Alps are in the east.
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| The Alps' impressive mountains and glaciers; Photo: Scott Stevens |
At 15,782 feet, Mont Blanc, located in the Alps on the France/Italy border, is the highest point in Western Europe. Forests, comprising more than 140 species of trees, account for 31 per cent of France's land area. The country has nine National Parks, 46 Natural Parks and 49 UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
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| Cross, Mont-Saint-Michel |
Among 47,000 religious buildings in France, 94 percent are Catholic churches. Many are owned by the state but operated by the church. And, many are open to the public as tourist attractions (some with a fee and some without).
I don’t have a lot of good things to say about religion, but those Catholics did build some great cathedrals and create some great art!
Food
French cuisine is renowned for being one of the finest in the world and, in France, is regarded as a key element of the quality of life.
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| The outdoor cafe is essential to French life |
The Michelin Guide (based in France) had awarded 630 stars to French restaurants, the most for any country (second-place is Japan with 414). A French meal typically consists of three courses: entrée (starter), plat principal (main course) and fromage (cheese) or dessert, sometimes with a salad served before the cheese or dessert. Wine is typically consumed.
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| Cheese and wine |
Different regions have different styles of cuisine. In the North, butter and cream are common ingredients, whereas olive oil is more commonly used in the South.
Each region of France has traditional specialties, Here are a few:
Tarte flambée or flammekueche, an extremely thin-crusted pizza cooked quickly in a blazing oven, and choucroute, a type of sauerkraut, in Alsace.
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| Flammekueche; Photo: Scott Stevens |
Crêpes, paper-thin pancakes that can be rolled with sweet or savory fillings, spread with toppings or soaked in liquor, in Brittany.
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| Crepes with Grand Marnier and whipped cream in Chamonix (wrong region, right food) |
Ratatouille, an eggplant and vegetable stew, in Provence.
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| Cassoulet; Photo: Scott Stevens |
Beef bourguignon and coq au vin, beef and chicken stews rich with red wine, in Burgundy.
Tarte Tatin, a thin apple tart, in the Loire Valley.
Croque monsieur, a crunchy ham and cheese sandwich, in Paris.
Bouillabaisse, a fish stew, in Côte d'Azur.
Quiche Lorraine, a savory egg-based tart, in Lorraine.
Macarons, delicate almond cookies made continuously by Ursuline nuns since 1620, in Saint-Émilion.
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| A wide assortment of macarons |
Seafood, including mussels (French: moules), oysters, fish and prawns are found on almost every menu. Scott had oysters a couple of times, but has finally conceded that he doesn't like French oysters. He finds them too salty (AKA briny), preferring larger and sweeter Louisiana oysters.
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| Scott took advantage on many occasions; Right photo: Scott Stevens |
Of course, everywhere in France, the bread is phenomenal. And, the baguette sandwiches, which feature BOTH the phenomenal bread AND the incomparable butter, are to die for. We had many.
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| My favorite thing in France |
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| An amazing display in a simple coffee shop (a French equivalent of Dunkin' Donuts) |
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| Tarts, croissants and rolls, Saint-Tropez |
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| The French curse: crumbs |
France is most famous for its wines and cheeses, which are often named for the territories where they are produced.
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| A cheese shop in Île Saint-Louis |
The country produces about 8 billion bottles of wine per year. French wine traces its history to the 6th Century BC, with many of regions dating their wine-making to Roman times. During the Middle Ages, monks maintained vineyards and, more importantly, conserved wine-making knowledge and skills.
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| When in France ...; Left photo: Scott Stevens |
Wine from vineyards owned by monasteries were considered to be superior and the French nobility also cultivated extensive vineyards. The French Revolution led to the confiscation of many from both the crown and the church.
French wine embraces the notion of terroir, which links the style of the wines to the locations where the grapes are grown and the wine is made. Practices are controlled by two systems, Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) started in 1935 and Appellation d'Origine Protégée (AOP) started in 2012.
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| The French take wine very seriously |
Both closely define which grape varieties and winemaking practices are approved for classification in each of France's several hundred geographically defined appellations, which can cover regions, villages, individual vineyards or even segments of vineyards. France is the source of many grape varieties, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot noir, Sauvignon blanc and Syrah, that are now planted throughout the world, as well as wine-making practices and wine styles that have been adopted in other producing countries.
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| Grapes in Bordeaux and carved grapes in Strasbourg |
All common styles of wine – red, rosé, white, sparkling and fortified – are produced in France. In most, French production ranges from cheap and simple versions to some of the world's most famous and expensive examples. French fortified wines tend to be relatively unknown outside France.
In addition to its wine tradition, France is also a major producer of beer and rum. The three main French brewing regions are Alsace, Nord-Pas-de-Calais and Lorraine.
Oh, and the French seem to have a real affinity for ice cream.
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| Gelato in Sainte-Maries-de-la-Mer and Scott with a cone in Paris |
The City of Light
Paris is the capital and largest city of France, with a population of 2 million in the city and 13 million in the metropolitan area.
Since the 17th Century, it has been one of the world's major centers of finance, diplomacy, commerce, culture, fashion and gastronomy. For its leading role in the arts and sciences, as well as an early introduction of street lighting, it is called the City of Light.
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| Adding more light: the Olympic flame, which was still burning when we visited |
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| Basilique du Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre |
Paris is known for its museums and architectural landmarks, including the Louvre, the Musée d'Orsay, Champs-Élysées, Arc de Triomphe and the Eiffel Tower.
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| The Eiffel Tower dominates day and night |
When the Romans took France in 52 BC, they built a settlement on the Left Bank called Lutetia that had an amphitheater, baths, temples, a forum and theaters.
Over time, the town's name changed to Parisius, which become Paris.
Christianity was introduced in the middle of the 3rd Century by St. Denis, the first Bishop of Paris. According to legend, when he refused to renounce his faith before the Roman occupiers, he was beheaded on a hill that became known as Mons Martyrum (Hill of Martyrs), later Montmartre. He is said to have walked headless to the north of the city where he fell and was buried. That place became an important religious shrine, the Basilica of Saint-Denis.
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| Or Charles the Chubby? Art: Wikipedia |
In the 10th Century, marshland between branches of the Seine was filled in and the city center began moving to the Right Bank.
By the end of the 12th Century, Paris had become the political, economic, religious and cultural capital of France. The Palais de la Cité, the royal residence, was built on the western end of the Île de la Cité, an island in the Seine.
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| Palais de la Cité |
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| One of Paris' many bridges; Photo: Scott Stevens |
With 200,000 inhabitants in 1328, Paris was the most populous city of Europe. By comparison, London had a population of 80,000.
During the Hundred Years' War, Paris was occupied by the English from 1420 until 1436. In the late 16th Century, Paris was a stronghold for Catholicism, so, in order to claim the crown, Henry IV converted to Catholicism. He completed the construction of Paris's first uncovered sidewalk-lined bridge, the Pont Neuf, built a Louvre extension connecting it to the Tuileries Palace and created the first residential square, now the Place des Vosges.
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| The Louvre |
In spite of his efforts to improve city circulation, the narrowness of Paris' streets was a contributing factor in his assassination in 1610.
In the 17th Century, Cardinal Richelieu, chief minister of Louis XIII, set out to make Paris the most beautiful city in Europe, building five bridges, a chapel for the College of Sorbonne and a palace for himself, the Palais-Cardinal (renamed Palais-Royal after his death).
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| Pont de la Tournelle; Photo: Scott Stevens |
Due to political unrest, Louis XIV moved his court to a safer palace, Versailles, in 1682.
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| Trees still line the boulevards |
Paris grew in population, reaching 650,000 in 1780. A new boulevard named the Champs-Élysées extended the city west and parts of the city grew increasingly crowded with poor workers. An explosion of philosophic and scientific activity, known as the Age of Enlightenment, marked major accomplishments in literature, music, publishing, art, fashion, fine furniture and luxury goods manufacturing.
Paris was even on the forefront of aviation, with the first manned flight of a hot air balloon.
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| Illustration: Mary Evans Picture Library |
In 1793, as the revolution turned increasingly radical, more than 16,000 people, including the king, queen and mayor were beheaded by guillotine. Property of the aristocracy and the church was nationalized and the city's churches were closed, sold or demolished. A succession of revolutionary factions ruled Paris until 1799, when Napoleon Bonaparte seized power.
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| The Coronation of Napoleon (Jacques-Louis David), Louvre; Photo: Scott Stevens |
The population of Paris had dropped by 100,000 during the Revolution, but after 1799 it surged, reaching 660,000 by 1815. Napoleon erected monuments to military glory, including the Arc de Triomphe; improved the neglected city infrastructure; and returned bridges and squares to their pre-Revolution names.
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| The Pont Neuf |
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| Statue atop Palais Garnier, the Paris Opera House |
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| We traveled by Métro a few times |
During World War I, Paris was on the front line; the city was bombed by Zeppelins and shelled by German long-range guns.
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| WWI Zeppelin damage; Photo: A Snippet of History |
During World War II, Germany occupied Paris. In the 50s and 60s, there was considerable political turmoil and Paris became more democratic. The population dropped from 2.85 million in 1954 to 2.15 million in 1990, as middle-class families moved to the suburbs. A suburban railway network and an expressway encircling the city were built.
In the early 21st Century, the population began to slowly increase, as more young people moved into the city. The Metropolis of Grand Paris, which integrated Paris with towns in the region around it, was created in 2016.
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| Modern-day Paris |
Although London, Milan and New York City are always mentioned, I would contend that Paris is still considered the world's fashion capital. The association of France with fashion and style dates largely to the reign of Louis XIV, when the luxury goods industries in France came increasingly under royal control and the French royal court became, arguably, the arbiter of taste and style in Europe. Modern haute couture ("high sewing" regulated by strict quality rules) originated in Paris in the 1860s, renewing France’s dominance in the years 1860-1960 through the great couturier houses such as Chanel, Dior and Givenchy.
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| Louis Vuitton, Paris; Middle photo: Scott Stevens |
Our Stay in Paris
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| My bulkhead seat had lots of room! |
We arrived in Paris at 10:30 a.m., which meant that with passport control and transport time, we reached our hotel around noon. Scott likes to nap upon an international arrival; I prefer to get on local time right away.
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| Quite a lunch! |
After dropping our bags at the hotel and lunch (he actually had a pig's knuckle), we were in at 2:00 p.m.
We stayed at the Hôtel de Lutèce, a beautiful 17th Century building on the Île Saint-Louis, which is one of two natural islands in the Seine River.
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| Our hotel on the main street of Île Saint-Louis; Right photo: Scott Stevens |
Île Saint-Louis sits opposite Île de la Cité, where Notre-Dame de Paris is located, and is connected to the rest of Paris by four bridges to both banks of the river and to the Île de la Cité.
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| I took this from the hotel on 2008 |
Although my travel records don’t go back that far, I realized when we arrived that we had actually stayed at the Hôtel de Lutèce before.
Located within the 4th arrondissement of Paris, Île Saint-Louis has a population of 4,453 in 27 acres.
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| It feels so French |
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| Île Saint-Louis; Photo: Scott Stevens |
The canal was filled in and construction began on large mansions, which were all occupied within 50 years.
The project used a precise urban plan for the first time in Paris.
No longer was building based solely on topography; rather, new streets were built straight and perpendicular to a central axis.
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| Subtly showing off |
To reduce fire risk, stone and slate replaced wood, plaster and thatch. For the first time, dwellings were orientated out, rather than towards an inner courtyard, with windows and balconies looking out to river views. The majority of the façades were simple; only fancy doors hinted at the wealth of the owners.
Île Saint-Louis became one of the most affluent neighborhoods in 17th and 18th Century Paris.
The island was renamed Île Saint-Louis in 1725 to honor Louis IX, who had been sainted only 30 years after his death in 1270. During the French Revolution, the island was briefly renamed Île de la Fraternité.
Rue Saint-Louis-en-l'Île, the main commercial street located in the center of the island, still retains many early residential buildings.
The Church of Saint-Louis-en-l'Île is the only church on the island (amazing in a church-rich country).
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| I wandered in and was alone in this beauty |
Because it is squeezed in between residences, it lacks some features normally found in churches. For example, the original bell tower was destroyed by a storm in 1740 and was replaced by a new openwork tower with a clock that hangs over the street like a shop sign.
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| Church clock |
The interior is French Baroque, with a central dome or cupola and an abundance of gold and white.
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| The ornate style has an Italian character |
Severe damage inflicted during the French Revolution was largely hidden by hanging tapestries in the early 1800s. The church is frequently used as a venue for concerts. Unfortunately, none were scheduled while we were there. We would have definitely gone!
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| The pipe organ was installed in 2005 |
Square Barye, on the southeast point of the island, is a popular park and garden shaped like a prow of a ship pointing into the Seine. Originally the site of a convent, it featured an 1894 sculpture by 19th Century French sculptor Antoine-Louis Barye depicting the combat between a mythological Centaur and a Lapith (a bipedal humanoid that can assume a form similar to a Centaur).
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| Square Barye |
The statue was removed and melted down for its bronze during World War II, but was replaced in 2011 with a copy.
We love Île Saint-Louis because it is within walking distance to many sights, has convenient metro stops and is relatively quiet and safe. There are lots of reasonably priced cafes, where we had some fabulous meals.
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| Scott had his first fois gras, which he loved; Photo: Scott Stevens |
Scott also had moules (remember, mussels?). I am not a fan of strong protein flavors, so I skewed more vegetarian.
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| Moules and fries, a French favorite; Photo: Scott Stevens |
I had some excellent risotto, a perfect avocado with vinaigrette and, one night, I had a massive plate of French fries, at which the French excel, for dinner. They were superb. Plus, we had a couple of our favorite – baguette sandwiches made delicious because of that bread and the butter.
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| Notre-Dame de Paris |
We had been to Paris before, so we didn’t have a lot of must-dos, just a few things planned. When I booked the trip, I was careful to make sure that the Olympics would be over (we hate crowds), only to find out later that the Paralympics would still be going on.
It turned out that Paris was quite crowded when we were there, but I can’t say for sure if it was because of the Paralympics or just Paris. There were some signs of both events, but not as obvious as I would have thought.
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| Logos on the Arc de Triomphe, Eiffel Tower, street signs; Left and middle photos: Scott Stevens |
The weather ranged from lovely to steamy. I had hoped for a hint of fall, but despite its northern location, early September was still summery.
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| Still green at the Louvre |
The Arc de Triomphe
We visited the Arc de Triomphe de l'Étoile, often called simply the Arc de Triomphe, even though we had been there on a previous trip to Paris.
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| Unbeatable! Photo: Scott Stevens |
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| The Arc de Triomphe is one of the most famous monuments in the world |
It stands at the western end of Paris' iconic boulevard, Champs-Élysées, at the center of Place Charles de Gaulle, formerly named Place de l'Étoile. The étoile is the "star" of the juncture formed by 12 avenues that radiate out from the Champs-Élysées.
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| Radiating towards the Eiffel Tower; Photo: Scott Stevens |
The Arc de Triomphe honors those who fought and died for France in the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars, with the names of all French victories and generals inscribed on its inner and outer surfaces.
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| Beneath its vault lies the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier from World War I |
Inspired by the Arch of Titus in Rome, the Arc de Triomphe is 164 feet tall, 148 feet wide and 72 feet deep, while its large vault is 95.8 feet high and 48 feet wide. The smaller transverse vaults are 61.3 feet high and 27.7 feet wide.
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| Looking up to the main vault (see the Paralympics logo?) |
The Arc de Triomphe was commissioned in 1806, after the victory at Austerlitz by Emperor Napoleon at the peak of his fortunes. Laying the foundations took two years and, in 1810, when Napoleon entered Paris with his new bride, Archduchess Marie-Louise of Austria, he had a wooden mock-up of the completed arch constructed.
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| Inside replica of a relief on the arch |
During the Bourbon Restoration, construction was halted, and it would not be completed until the reign of Louis Philippe I, between 1833 and 1836. The final cost was reported at about 10,000,000 francs (equivalent to an estimated $75 million in 2020).
Following its completion, the Arc de Triomphe became the rallying point of French troops parading after successful military campaigns and for the annual Bastille Day military parade.
It has interesting displays inside, but we spent most of our time on the top, looking out at the city.
Even though it is an observation area, it had lots of ramps, super high steps and obstacles.
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| You really have to watch your footing |
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| It's in a busy area, but well worth a visit |
Montparnasse Observation Tower
Originally, I had not planned to go to the top of the Eiffel Tower because we had done that before and all I remembered was a crush of people. But, then, right before we left, Scott said he wanted to go at night for some city views. Unfortunately (or so we thought), all the good times were booked. Then, I found an option where we could look at the Eiffel Tower at night: the Montparnasse Observation Tower.
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| The outdoor deck celebrates Paris |
The tower is on top of Tour Maine-Montparnasse (Maine-Montparnasse Tower), commonly called Tour Montparnasse. It is a 689-foot-tall office skyscraper opened in 1973. It was the tallest skyscraper in France until 2011, when it was surpassed by the 758-foot Tour First West of Paris. It remains the tallest building in Paris proper.
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| Tour Maine-Montparnasse; Left photo: Scott Stevens |
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| We arrived before dark |
Watching the Eiffel Tower sparkle is much better than being in it when it sparkles. See sparkles here.
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| A magical sight; Middle photo: Scott Stevens |
The view covers a radius of 25 miles.
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| We could see some Paralympic venues |
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| And, the Olympic flame in front of the Louvre |
Montparnasse Tower's simple architecture, large proportions and monolithic appearance have been often criticized by Parisians for being out of place in Paris' landscape. As a result, two years after its completion the construction of buildings taller than seven stories were banned in the city center. This ban was lifted in 2015.
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| Still, Paris doesn't have many tall buildings; Photo: Scott Stevens |
Tour Eiffel (the Eiffel Tower), a wrought-iron lattice structure on the Champ de Mars named after engineer Gustave Eiffel, whose company designed and built it.
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| I took this in 2008 |
Locally nicknamed La Dame de Fer (Iron Lady), it was constructed as the centerpiece of the 1889 World's Fair and to crown the centennial anniversary of the French Revolution.
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| Poster: My Modern Met; Photo: WETA |
Although initially criticized by some of France's leading artists and intellectuals for its design, it has since become a global cultural icon of France and one of the most recognizable structures in the world. It was designated a Monument Historique in 1964 and was named part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site (Paris, Banks of the Seine) in 1991.
The tallest structure in Paris, the 1,083-foot-tall Eiffel Tower sits on a base that measures 410 feet on each side. It has three levels for visitors, with restaurants on the first and second levels. The top level's upper platform 906 feet above the ground. So, although it felt that we dwarfed the Eiffel Tower from where we were, it is actually taller than Montparnasse.
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| Distance and altitude fool the brain |
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| Beacon on the top |
Eiffel had a permit for the tower to stand for 20 years. It was to be dismantled in 1909, when its ownership would revert to the City of Paris. The city had planned to tear it down. Indeed, part of the original contest rules for designing a tower was that it should be easy to dismantle. But, the tower proved to be valuable for many innovations in the early 20th Century, particularly radio telegraphy.
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| Photo: Reddit |
During World War I, the Eiffel Tower's wireless station played a crucial role in intercepting enemy communications from Berlin.
From 1925 to 1934, illuminated signs for Citroën adorned three of the tower's sides, making it the tallest advertising space in the world at the time.
In April 1935, the tower was used to make experimental low-resolution television transmissions.
For its Countdown to the Year 2000 celebration in 1999, flashing lights and high-powered searchlights were installed on the tower. During the last three minutes of the year, the lights were turned on starting from the base of the tower and continuing to the top to welcome 2000 with a huge fireworks show. The lights sparkled blue for several nights to herald the new millennium. The sparkly lighting continued for 18 months until July 2001 and were turned on again on in 2003, with a display planned to last for 10 years.
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| When we visited, it still had rings |
Following the Olympics, Mayor Anne Hidalgo proposed keeping the Olympic rings on the tower permanently. They were still on when we were there, but have since been removed.
The tower and its image have been in the public domain since 1993, 70 years after Eiffel's death. But, any illumination of the tower is a separate work of art that falls under copyright.
As a result, it might be illegal to publish contemporary photographs of the lit tower at night without permission. It is rare to find images or videos of the lit tower on stock image sites and media outlets rarely broadcast images or videos of it.
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| We thumb our noses at that; Right photo: Scott Stevens |
Musée du Louvre
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| Me taking photos; Photo: Scott Stevens |
We visited the Louvre, home to many important works of Western art, including the Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo and Winged Victory.
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| Two out of three; Middle and right photos: Scott Stevens |
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| The ceiling screams palace |
The museum is housed in the Louvre Palace, originally built in the late 12th to 13th Century at the site of the Roman fortress, which, due to urban expansion, had lost its defensive function and been converted into the primary residence of the French kings.
The building was extended many times to form the present Louvre Palace.
In 1682, when Louis XIV moved outside Paris to Versailles, the Louvre became a place to display the royal collection, including ancient Greek and Roman sculpture.
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| The Louvre sits on the Right Bank of the Seine |
Since 1993, the museum's main entrance has been the underground space under the Louvre Pyramid, or Hall Napoléon, a modern glass structure designed by I.M. Pei to give direct access to the museum's three wings and improve visitor circulation inside. Remnants of the Medieval Louvre fortress are visible in the basement of the museum.
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| The Pyramid |
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| Madame Rivière and Grande Odalisque by Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres |
Before World War II was even declared, the Louvre moved important artworks including the Mona Lisa temporarily to the Château de Chambord in the Loire Valley.
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| Moving artwork; Photo: Bleu Blonde Rouge |
When war was formally declared, most of the rest of the paintings were sent to Chambord as well. Select sculptures, including Winged Victory and Venus de Milo, were sent to the Château de Valençay in Berry. Throughout the war, pieces were clandestinely moved from one château to another to avoid being taken by the Nazis. The Mona Lisa was moved from Chambord to several castles and abbeys, to finish at the end of the war at the Musée Ingres in Montauban.
In early 1945, after the liberation of France, art began returning to the Louvre, with the help of the United States' "Monuments Men."
The 652,000 square-foot museum now owns 500,000 objects and displays 35,000 works of art in eight departments: Egyptian Antiquities; Near Eastern Antiquities; Greek, Etruscan and Roman Antiquities; Islamic Art; Sculpture; Decorative Arts; Paintings; Prints and Drawings.
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| Scott admires sculpture |
We had been before, but I don’t recall staying very long, so I thought going back would be a good idea. It wasn’t. It was insanely crowded and very, very warm inside (which seems bad for the artwork).
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| Lots of people |
We hit some highlights and then moved on. I just can’t deal with super crowded museums.
Big Bust
Often, when we visit cities, we buy passes on hop-on-hop-off sightseeing buses.
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| This Big Bus ad is misleading, we never got close to the Eiffel Tower |
Generally, you can get a nice overview of the city and then use the bus to get from place to place. I bought a two-day Big Bus pass and almost immediately regretted it.
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| We did get good views of Les Invalides |
First, the route was relatively short (I swear it covered more ground last time we were there).
Second, the weather was uncooperative, with sun making it hot and occasional bouts of rain making riding on top where you can actually see something impossible.
Third, the buses frequently let more people on than capacity, meaning that you often had to stand and hold on for dear life (on one segment, a woman took a bad tumble down the stairs to the top deck; she insisted she was fine, but I suspect she really wasn’t).
And, finally, traffic was horrendous, making the trip a crawl rather than a ride. I think I am done with these buses!
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| Bus-level photos |
Saint-Germain des Près Concert
The highlight of our visit (besides the food) was a classical concert at Saint-Germain des Près Church, a Roman Catholic parish church built on the site of a Roman temple and road, that is considered the oldest existing church in Paris.
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| Saint-Germain des Près; Left and right photos: Scott Stevens |
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| Intricate art work |
The church is, indeed, beautiful.
Saint-Germain des Près was originally the church of a Benedictine abbey founded in 558 by the Franks. It was destroyed by the Vikings, rebuilt and renamed in the 8th Century for Saint Germain, a 6th Century bishop. It was rebuilt again in the Gothic style in the 11th and 12th Centuries.
The present choir of the church was built in the middle of the 12th Century. Flying buttresses, the first in France, were added at the end of the 12th Century.
The other buildings of the monastery were gradually rebuilt during the 13th Century. Most of the Abbey, except for the chapel and the palace of the Bishop, was destroyed during the French Revolution. Afterwards the chapel was restored and became the parish church.
The interior decoration is predominantly Baroque.
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| Restored murals |
Unlike churches where stained glass windows provide the majority of color, Saint-Germaine gets its punch from frescoes that cover the walls and arches. The interior was restored from 2017 to 2020, particularly the 19th Century murals in the nave that had faded.
Nearly all of the original stained glass in the church was destroyed during the French Revolution, but four 13th Century windows are now in the southeast side of the choir in the Chapel of Saint Genevieve.
The church’s long history makes it a virtual catalog of French religious architectural styles, including Romanesque, Gothic, Neoclassical, Gothic Revival and Baroque.
The oldest parts are the Romanesque bell tower and portal at the west end. The nave is a combinations of Romanesque and Gothic.
And, the concert, presented by a string quartet that was then joined by a rather dramatic violinist, was fabulous.
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| A great evening; Photos: Scott Stevens |
We always try to enjoy music when traveling. We had trouble finding some, but this (found online) was wonderful.
Paris Streets
We spent a lot of time just strolling and admiring the architecture and ambiance of Paris.
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| Morning |
It is a city made for strolling.
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| Evening; Photo: Scott Stevens |
Of course, I am always looking for birds. I was surprised at how few I saw in Paris. It was almost exclusively house Sparrows and Rock Pigeons.
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| Exceptions were a couple of European Starlings and a Rose-ringed Parakeet |
After a few days in Paris, we were ready to hit the road. Read about it next.
Trip Dates: September 4-26, 2024
