South to Fossil Butte

Caty and I decided to make some stops on the way home from Grand Teton, so we took the southwest route straight out of Jackson (and, congratulations to us, driving through to leave was the ONLY time we went into Jackson!). Our first planned destination was Fossil Butte National Monument.

I haven't been there in years

On the way, we drove under the biggest antler arch in the world in Afton, Wyoming. 

How many times do you see this?

It’s a very pretty drive through Bridger-Teton National Forest with great river views, very little traffic and lots of raptors. We stopped to see two juvenile Bald Eagles that were just standing in a field. 

Standing in a field

I think that recently fledged raptors tend to stand longer than adults when you get near them. We’ve seen this behavior in several different kinds of birds. But, they did take off when we stopped to take a look.

Taking off

Our first planned destination was Fossil Butte National Monument near Kemmerer, Wyoming (in others words, not really near anything). It’s a rather small NPS site with a beautiful Visitor Center that replaced the trailer that was there the first time I visited in the 90s.

A new Visitor Center

Fossil Butte National Monument preserves a remarkable collection of primarily aquatic fossils from the Cenozoic period. It is the best collection in North America -- and possibly the world. The fossils are from an ancient lake bed that was the smallest of three subtropical freshwater lakes in what is now Colorado, Utah and Wyoming. 

Ancient turtle

The area is part of he 50-million-year-old Green River Formation. Fossils include fish, alligators, bats, turtles, small horses, insects and plants that accumulated over about a 2 million-year period.

Nice displays

When the fossils were discovered as coal mines for the railroad were dug from about 1897 to 1937, miners sold them to collectors. Fortunately, national monument designation has put an end to that.

Actual fish skin

The fossils in the Visitors Center are amazing. I would love to be able to decorate a house with them. There are three types — actual remains such as bones or fish scales (those are actual scales above), impressions and calcified remains (sort of like petrified wood). Plus, there are a number of fossils of footprints, fish and reptile trails and plants. My favorite is a large gator (OK, crocodile) named the Wilsoni, probably in honor of my favorite gator fans, Donna and Rick Wilson.

A Gator (OK, croc) named Wilsoni (nod to my favorite gator fans, Donna and Rick Wilson

As we were looking at the fossils, a couple came in, asking where they could go to dig up fossils. The ranger very nicely explained that no one can move anything from a national park (this applies in all parks) and that digging was not allowed. He then said there were some shops nearby that sold legal fossils that were not from NPS land. The couple was not satisfied with that. He then said there were some commercial operations that would let them dig for a fee. They left very disgruntled. I think I would have put a ranger tail on them to make sure they didn’t go out digging anyway. 

National Parks stop pillaging and preserve wonders so we can see them

In the summertime, paleontologists work at Fossil Butte, cleaning and studying new discoveries. No one was working while we were there, but the work station was visible through a glass window. This place would be a dream come true for a kid fascinated with dinosaurs (and more on that to come when I talk about Dinosaur National Monument).

The lab

One thing I found very interesting, but didn't really photograph, was how they dealt with errors and new discoveries that rendered a Huge mural in the Visitor Center out of date. Apparently, the mural artists incorrectly rendered some of the prehistoric beasts represented and some were thought to be correct, but proven correct by recent discoveries. Instead of leaving incorrect info up OR paying for a new mural, they had a plaque pointing out the errors and explaining the corrections. I think it's a great way to show how science reveals new information and, in some ways, it actually teaches more than just a plain mural.

Lots of details

I can pretty much imagine what happened: the mural went up and the Park Service was inundated with complaints from scientists about errors. Anyone who writes know how this goes. It was an elegant solution.

Fossil Butte has an immense number of fossils

Fossil Butte is small and out of the way, but it's really a gem. It's a pretty setting, it reveals a remarkable history and it underscores how important it is to preserve not only artifacts, but the process by which artifacts are discovered, studied and used to teach us about our world.

A nice detour

Trip date: July 30-August 5, 2016

Grand Prismatic Spring

As the days wore on, the sky got smokier and smokier, so one day we decided to drive back us and go to the Grand Prismatic Spring. We had skipped it before because the crowds were so big and I was regretting it.

A favorite place in Yellowstone

So, we drove back up. As we approached, we could see the steaming lake from the road.

If you look closely, you can see reflected blue and orange in the steam

We waited in a long line of cars for about 30 minutes for a parking space (which someone actually tried to take by going around us!). Parking is insane and, apparently, not well enforced.

Well, there you are

Then, we walked out to the pool. It was crowded and hot, but worth it. Because the outside temperature was hot, we could really see the colors.

Interesting orange and yellow

If you go when it is cold out, it's like walking through a thick cloud; sometimes so thick that staying on the path is difficult, which is dangerous. The steam still obscured a lot of the turquoise on Grand Prismatic, but the orange and yellow algae was spectacular.

Heat improves the view

Grand Prismatic is the largest hot spring in the United States and the third largest in the world after Frying Pan Lake in New Zealand ...

Photo: Pseudopanax at English Wikipedia

... and Boiling Lake in Dominica ...

Photo: Atlas Obscura

I think Grand Prismatic is definitely the most beautiful.

You can't beat this

The first records of the spring are from early European explorers and surveyors. In 1839, a group of fur trappers from the American Fur Company noted a "boiling lake" in the Midway Geyser Basin.

 The color depends on the ratio of chlorophyll to carotenoids and the water temperature

The bright colors in the spring are the result of pigmented bacteria in microbial mats that grow around the edges of the mineral-rich water. The colors range from green to red; In the summer, the mats tend to be orange and red; in the winter, the mats are usually dark green. The center of the pool is sterile due to extreme heat

The deep blue color of the water in the center of the pool results from the scattering of blue light by particles suspended in the water. This, of course is impossible to see without being above the pool, which a normal tourist can't do. A drone would get it -- but (for good reason) drones are illegal in national parks.

You can't really see the whole pool

The spring is approximately 370 feet in diameter and 121 feet deep. It discharges about 560 gallons of 160 °F water per minute.

When you walk to the pool, you cross over the Firehole River and can see hot water cascading down the rock to mix with the cold river water.

The boiling water empties into the river

Also along the boardwalk to Grand Prismatic, you pass the Excelsior Geyser Basin ....

So beautiful

... Turquoise Pool …

Aptly named

I wish they would make the boardwalk a one-way loop. I can’t see any reason not to, but instead people can come at Grand Prismatic from either direction. It is crowded, often slick and has no railings. People do some stupid things, so it is always a little scary to walk out there. I have had people push me, step backwards into me as they take selfies and run past me. 

This is dangerous territory

The environment is very fragile and the water very hot, so it is dangerous to step or all off the boardwalk. Still, some people are either idiots or just rude. A one-way loop might help.

Even though it was a long drive, I am glad we went back because it is so pretty and I got some great photos of one of America’s (and the world’s) true natural wonders.

I can't get enough of this

Trip date: July 30-August 5, 2016

Grand Teton

Grand Teton National Park

Sorry it’s been awhile since I have posted the next segments of my trip, but two of the down (and up) sides of my type of travel is that I have no time to sit and type and no (or very bad) Internet for posting much of the time. It may be awhile after this one (or the next) as well. But, rest assured, they are coming.

Mormon Row

So, after Yellowstone, we moved down to Grand Teton National Park. Where Yellowstone has always brought wildlife — especially Grizzlies and Wolves — to mind, Grand Teton has always been about the scenery. 

Mountains and lake: ahhhh

I believe the view of Mount Moran and the three Tetons is one of the prettiest in the world. 

It truly does not get better than this

Of course, as I think about it, Teton has always been better for Moose and, on my last two trips there, I did see both Black and Grizzly Bears. Plus, I had seen a number of posts on Front Range Wildlife Photographers of Great Grey Owls in south Teton. I would really like to see a Great Grey — and that can’t happen in Colorado. Unfortunately, it didn't happen in Grand Teton, either.

Mule Deer at the cabin

Caty and I stayed a Dornan’s Spur Ranch, a new place for us. We were very happy with the choice. We had a one bedroom cabin with a full kitchen. Caty slept in the bedroom and said it was the most comfortable hotel/cabin bed she had ever slept on. I slept on the sleeper couch in the living room and it, too, was very comfy. 

Dornan’s is in a little complex on the Snake River just at the edge of the park. It has gas pumps, a very good pizza/sandwich restaurant (we got take out pizza the first night), a deli/grocery store, a chuck wagon dinner restaurant (we had intended to go one night, but it never happened) and an office for Barker-Ewing float trips. Plus, in the early, early morning, we had a visit from a doe and her two fawns.

Dornan’s is close to Moose-Wilson Road, which in the past has proven to be a bonanza for wildlife.

I am not going to detail the trip step-by-step or in chronological order. Rather, I will say Grand Teron was a big disappointment in the large animal department. No Bears. No Moose. We did see a smattering of Bison ...

A nice place to graze

... and a mother Pronghorn with her two babies ... 

You don't see a lot of baby Pronghorn

My burgeoning interest in bird photography was a big help on this trip because we did see a variety of birds.

Cedar Waxwing

Red-naped Sapsucker

Male Belted Kingfisher

A Western Tanager that would not look my way

A number of Violet-green Swallows that also liked to look the other way

Several Ospreys

A mama northern flicker with her (almost grown) chick

Some juvenile Mountain Bluebirds

For much of the time, the smoke from nearby forest fires interfered with what is normally spectacular views. This is becoming more and more of a problem each year as temperatures rise and fires increase. We were rather surprised that, despite the haze, we were able to get some gorgeous pictures of Tetons and Moran reflecting on Jackson Lake …

Surprise!

Caty and me

… and of the barns on Mormon Row …

Such a great view

I actually think the less popular Moulton Barn is the prettiest…

My favorite

… which is lucky because when we arrived at the second barn (the one with the corals), there were two photographers back in the field behind the walkway taking pictures. I politely waited until the one near me looked up from his camera with the intent to walk quickly to the other side of the walkway to get my shot. I took two step and he yelled, “Stop!.” He wasn’t polite. He didn’t ask if I could wait. He just told me to stop. I guess next time I want a picture of Old Faithful, I’ll just tell the 1,000 or so folks there to get out of my way!

I should have said no, but instead, I just left. The shot wasn’t as good as Moulton anyway, so why argue? Still, arrrrrgggghhhh.

Most photographers are accommodating

One night, we took the sunset float trip on the Snake River. It’s a great time to go for animals, but a challenge for photography. The combination of waning light and a moving (rather briskly moving) boat, makes good shots almost impossible.

Still, we had to go

But, we did see quite a bit of wildlife — mainly Beavers (lots) and Bald Eagles (lots). We also saw Grouse, Killdeers and Mergansers. No Otters. No Moose. No Bears. Still, it was very pleasant and we did see Beavers ...

Entering the water

... lots of beavers ...

Swimming

... and Bald Eagles ...

A juvenile landing

We must have driven Moose-Wilson Road a million times looking for Owls, Bears and Moose. But, we saw only birds and Mule Deer. 

Mule Deer fawn

As the days wore on, the sky got smokier and smokier, so one day we decided to drive back us and go to the Grand Prismatic Spring — see my next post to read about that.

Even though the animal sightings were low and the air smoky, we had a great time and we will return. 

Aphrodite Fritillary Butterfly

We always do.

Love this place

Trip date: July 30-August 5, 2016