If I Were Going...

Sunday, September 13, 2026

Back in Tutuila

Siapo at the National Park Visitor Center

We bid farewell to Ofu and flew back to Pago Pago for our final two days in American Samoa.

We started with a visit to the Visitor Center of the National Park of American Samoa, where we had a ceremony recognizing the four of us who were visiting our 63rd National Park.

Peter; Jim; Honorees Linda, Bill and Susan; Ranger Pua, Jack, me, Amber, Caty, Ranger Tama

Head Ranger Pua Tuaua, resplendent in his National Park Service lavalava, gave us an overview of the Park (of course, we had already visited the units in Ofu and Tutuila).

Head Ranger Pua, flat hat and all

Then, he presented each of us with a certificate.

Linda getting her certificate, then Bill and Susan (I don't know why they didn't each get their own)

A big moment for me

Even though I had stamped my passport the first day we visited, I felt it was important to restamp on this day.

Ceremonial stamping

Success!!!

Siapo

In the photos, you can see a giant siapo cloth behind us. At the Visitor Center, we saw a film about how this incredible material is made.

The one that hangs in the Visitor Center

Siapo, also called tapa cloth or simply tapa, is a barkcloth made from the inner bark of paper mulberry or breadfruit trees. In was primarily used for clothing, burial shrouds, bed covers, curtains and ceremonial garments before being replaced by modern textiles.

Traditional siapo clothing; Left: PICRYL; Right: Wordpress

It is still used for ceremonies and is often given as a gift at weddings, funerals and formal events.

Siapo; Left: Denver Museum of Art; Right: Spencer Museum of Art

It is an arduous multi-step process: The paper mulberry tree (u'a) is harvested when the trunk is one to two inches in diameter; the outer bark stripped off with a sharp knife (or, as shown below, sharp teeth); the inner bark layer is moistened and scraped with clam shells to remove remaining bark or green growth and to soften and spread the fibers; the bark is beaten with a wooden mallet (i'e) over a wooden anvil (tutua) to make it softer and wider; and then the u'a is stretched out flat to dry.

Making the bark cloth; Photos: Wordpress

After it dries, the u’a placed on a board known as an upeti that has a design carved into it; the u’a is rubbed with a pad of dye to bring out the design; red clay is used to darken the design; the u'a is wiped with starchy arrowroot adhesive; and small holes are patched with additional u’a and adhesive. Then, a second layer of u'a is placed on top of the first; the rubbing process repeated; and the piece is then lifted off the board and left to dry.

Patching undyed cloth; Photo: NPS

Once dried again, the design on the u'a is highlighted by painting over sections with dye. Larger pieces can be created by joining smaller sections together.

Artists working on the siapo we saw; Photos: NPS

Thirteen symbolic design elements were traditionally used in siapo, including plants, flowers, birds, the trochus shell, starfish and nets. The elements are combined into many patterns. Dyes are made from the blood tree (brown); burned candlenuts (black); lipstick tree (red) and turmeric (yellow). Purple, made with the sap of a banana tree, is no longer used.

This design is more abstract

Siapo production in American Samoa decreased after World War II when many Samoans migrated to Hawai’i and the U.S. mainland. Those who stayed adopted western culture and abandoned many cultural practices. Now, siapo is made by only a few people, mainly for the tourist trade, and is quite expensive.

More Misses

Our itinerary said we would visit the National Marine Sanctuary's Tauese P.F. Sunia Ocean Center, but it was closed for Juneteenth. Ironic that American Samoa celebrates a holiday about the end of slavery a half a world and over a century away when I seldom see anything closed for Juneteenth at home. But, then, many Samoans are Federal employees.

I wish we could have gone; Photos: Tauese P.F. Sunia Ocean Center

The Center has exhibits on the value of coral reefs, ocean ecosystems, Samoan cultural ties to coral reefs and natural and human threats to reefs. One of the main exhibits at the Ocean Center is the Science On a Sphere®. This room-sized global display system uses computers and video projectors to display planetary data onto a six-foot diameter sphere.

Science On a Sphere®; Photo: Tauese P.F. Sunia Ocean Center

When I worked at the Space Foundation in Colorado Springs, we had a Science On a Sphere®, so that would have been cool.

Next we were supposed to take a walking tour of Fagatogo, the downtown area of Pago Pago. Located at the foot of Matafao Peak, it was the location of the first American settlement on Tutuila Island. We didn’t. Perhaps also because of the holiday. I don’t know.

Fagatogo; Photo: Wikipedia

The town of Fagatogo was the administrative center of the U.S. Naval Station Tutuila from 1900 to1951. Only 14 of Fagatogo’s original 105 naval structures remain. Most are on the National Register of Historic Places.

The church we attended is in Fagatogo

Instead, we went to tour a local organic farm. This was quite odd. Peter said it was something new he was trying. We started walking along a narrow path beside a chain-link fence surrounding a water tank while a very nervous teen-aged girl showed us a variety of herbs and medicinal plants growing rather free-form beds.

Then, behind the tank, the plot of land dropped into a deep valley and we started to descend a slippery stone trail over which a stream plunged to create a waterfall.

It would have been fine with the right shoes and a walking stick (maybe)

We were heading to the owner’s home for tea, but the trail was really treacherous and none of us had the right shoes or walking sticks or any interest in plunging to our deaths. So, we aborted the visit.

Peter apologized, admitting that he had not ever been down the trail at the farm.

We returned to Sadie’s by the Sea where we had more free time. Since the waves were much calmer, Caty and I decided to try snorkeling in Sadie’s lagoon.

Well, it was calm!

It was disappointingly murky, so we aborted that as well. I am not sure if it is always so murky, but that may have been a holdover from the previous two weeks of rough surf.

We saw fish (that's a Vagabond Butterflyfish), but the water was kind of creepy

That night we went to a different restaurant (I can't recall the name). It was one of those laughable situations where they were out of many items on the menu and the waitress (bless her heart) didn’t seem to know much about the offerings (or the difference between red and white wine). After rescinding my fish sandwich order because I don’t like swordfish (the waitress didn’t mention that they were subbing swordfish for tilapia until long after I had ordered, so I had to call her back to make the change), I got pizza that was really quite good. It was a fun evening that made us miss Goat Island Café.

A Final Walk

The next morning, we returned to the National Park for a guided hike with Ranger Pua to get a better look at the base of Pola Island.

Looking down toward our goal

It was hot and sticky with occasional sprinkles.

Probably the most humid weather we encountered

But, the trail was relatively easy ...

Bill, Linda and Jim starting out on the hike

... until we got to the bottom that went steeply down some rocks to a rocky beach.

At the bottom

Along the trail, Pua showed us ruins of ancient peoples, the first we had seen in American Samoa.

Because most homes were made of organic materials, little remains

There was actually little to view: an ancient grinding stone, known as a foaga, and an almost undiscernible foundation.

Samoans used foaga to make basalt stone tools and weapons like adzes and axes

The trail went through true jungle ...

Palms and ferns

Impressive roots

Thickets and dense trees

Yellow Crazy Ants, named for their their frantic, erratic movements

Green, green, green

Along the path got a better look at the futu seed – the one that paralyzes fish.

The poisonous futu plant

The locals would grind the futu seeds on lava rock to create a pulp that was placed in fishing areas during low tide, after which the poisoned fish float up to the surface to be harvested by the villagers. Apparently, eating fish caught using this method is safe for humans because the active toxins do not accumulate in harmful amounts, though ingesting the raw seeds or concentrated plant pulp directly is toxic.

When we reached the bottom of the trail, about half of us opted not to climb down the rocks to the shore. We could see fine from where we were.

There's a sea arch at the end of the beach

The rocky beach was interesting. Listen to this video to hear the interesting sound the surf made as it rolled the rocks around.

Up at the trailhead, I finally got a photo of a Many-colored Fruit-Dove. It was a female, which is not as colorful as the male, but it was still beautiful.

Thanks, Caty, for spotting it!

And, we also saw another Pacific Kingfisher

Farewell

That evening, we had a farewell dinner back at the Goat Island Café before leaving to catch our late-night flight back to Honolulu.

Our home away from home

It was nice that OTBP arranged for us to keep our rooms until we had to leave for the airport so that we could repack and shower.

Goodbye, Pago Pago

The airport was one final reminder of the role of family in Samoan society. I swear that every employee at the Pago Pago airport knew – or even more common, was related to – every Samoan who was flying out that night. This included gate agents, immigration officers, TSA agents and flight crews. Lots of hugs and personal conversations. It was crazy.

I understand it is crowded for every departing flight

Our flight was an overnight: we left at 9:20 p.m. and arrived in Honolulu at 5:45 a.m.

Once there, we went through immigration (even though we were traveling from a U.S. territory to a U.S. state), retrieved our bags and went to another terminal to collect gear Caty had stored at the airport. We then checked in for our 9:35 a.m. flight to Kona, where we met up with Becca, who had arrived the night before.

The ocean as we were landing

We'll talk about Kona next.

Trip dates: June 7 - 29, 2026

Saturday, September 12, 2026

Group Adventures on Ofu and Olosega

Olosega

Our first group activity (beside our abundant meals) on the Manu’a Islands was a field trip to Sili, the abandoned town just past the bridge between Ofu and Olosega.

We traveled from Ofu, arrow on the left, to Sili, arrow on the right

Our transportation was a flatbed truck outfitted with wooden benches, kind of like a very rudimentary safari vehicle – or transport for field workers going to pick crops.

On the truck

The road to Olosega

Of course, we did exploring along the way.

I have a ridiculous number of photos of us with The National Park of American Samoa sign

Our first real stop was the Āsaga Strait between Ofu and Olosega. Although I had read about it, I was still surprised about how narrow the channel was between Ofu and Olosega.

Āsaga Strait is 449 feet across; the bridge, slightly longer

It had seemed so dramatic hearing that people used to walk or swim between the two islands.

The north side of the strait; Photos: Caty Stevens

Seeing it made it look doable (although the current through that concentrated slot seemed pretty tough).

Where we were; Map: Google Maps

Peter talked about going there later to snorkel, but we never did. I regret that because we could have.

Views of the bridge

The water was pretty. I think it would have been lovely.

The beach by the strait

The path (if you can call it that) to Sili was partially a rutted road completely overgrown with knee-to-thigh-high plants covered with little stickers that loved to cling to your pants.

Part was paved, most was overgrown

I wish I had worn long pants and closed-toe shoes that day (never trust a Samoan on what shoes to wear; they go barefoot in the jungle).

Exposed ankles and feet was a bad idea

Part was a less overgrown trail through dense jungle. Peter shared lots of information about the medicinal properties of local plants.

Peter schools us on local plants

This included the usual cures for headaches and toothaches plus the futu tree, which has a seed that locals used to use to paralyze fish to make them easy to net. That’s illegal now because they learned that it also paralyzed everything else in the water, including coral.

The group listening to Peter's knowledge

Along that part of the trail, we saw lots and lots of Hermit Crabs, some quite large.

Strawberry Hermit Crab

In case you don’t know, Hermit Crabs have adapted to occupy empty scavenged gastropod shells (most often calcified snail shells) to protect their fragile abdomens instead of growing their own shells. There are over 800 species of Hermit Crab found in almost all marine environments. They can be informally divided into two groups: aquatic and terrestrial.

An aquatic Hermit Crab I photographed earlier on Tutuila

The ones we saw on this hike were terrestrial, meaning that they spend most of their lives on land in tropical areas, although they require access to water to keep their gills damp or wet to survive and to reproduce.

A terrestrial Purple Hermit Crab

Hermit Crab species range in size and shape, from only a few millimeters long to the shell-less Coconut Crab I talked about earlier. They molt as they develop, shedding an exoskeleton that resembles a limp crab. As they grow, they require larger shells.

Since suitable intact gastropod shells are sometimes hard to find, competition often occurs between Hermit Crabs for shells. Crabs with undersized shells cannot grow as fast as those with well-fitting shells, and are more likely to be eaten if they cannot retract completely into the shell.

Peter showing us the Strawberry Hermit Crab

While marine Hermit Crabs have a readily available supply of gastropod shells, shells used by terrestrial Hermit Crabs have usually been remodeled by previous owners. This involves hollowing out the shell, making it lighter.

This Purple Hermit Carb was half again as big as the Strawberry

They also participate in elaborate interactions to exchange shells with other Crabs, presumably to obtain a better fit. This is usually between individuals of the same species, but can also be between different species.

This guy was minding his own business

There are cases when shells are not available and Hermit Crabs will use alternatives such as cans or other debris, which often proves fatal because, for example, they can climb into, but not out of, slippery plastic debris. This can even create a chain reaction of fatality, because the scent of a dead Hermit Crab signals others that a shell is available, luring more to their deaths.

It was among these many, many multiple-sized Hermit Crabs that we saw a Coconut Crab.

It was snuggled up in a palm frond

A terrestrial species of Giant Hermit Crab, the Coconut Crab is the largest living terrestrial arthropod, weighing up to 9 lbs. The distance from the tip of one leg to the tip of another can be as wide as 3 feet, 3 inches. Males are generally larger than females.

Largest land arthropod on Earth; Photos: International Science Teaching Foundation

Found on islands across the Indian and Pacific Oceans, its range broadly shadows the distribution of the coconut palm, but, it is no longer found in highly populated areas such as mainland Australia or Madagascar.

Juvenile Coconut Crabs use empty gastropod shells for protection like other Hermit Crabs, but adults develop a tough exoskeleton on their abdomens and stop carrying a shell.

No shells? No problem! Left: Travel2Unlimited; Right: Emilio Mancuso

Without shell restriction, they can grow larger.

They feed primarily on fleshy fruits, nuts, seeds and the pith of fallen trees, but will eat hatchling turtles, crabs, small rodents, birds and other organic matter and carrion. They have been seen scavenging dead Coconut Crabs and it is rumored that they will eat human remains (an urban legend with no factual support suggests that Amelia Earhart’s remains were eaten by Coconut Crabs on the island of Nikumaroro).

Eating another crab; Photo: DiscoverWildlife

They will investigate and may carry away anything left unattended, giving them the nickname of "Robber Crab."

Despite its name, coconuts are not really a significant part of the Crab's diet

Coconut Crabs have been filmed climbing coconut and pandanus trees, but have never been observed picking coconuts.

On the ground, they will cut a coconut to a husk nut, carry it up a 30-foot tree and drop it to access the flesh inside. If the coconut is still covered with husk, the Crab uses its claws to rip off strips, always starting on the side with the three germination pores. Once the pores are visible, the Coconut Crab bangs its pincers on one of them until it breaks. Then, it uses the smaller pincers on its other legs to pull out the coconut flesht. Larger individuals can even break the hard coconut into smaller pieces for easier consumption.

Coconut Crabs with namesake; Left: Treehugger; Right: Ranger Rick Mags

They often descend from the trees by falling and can survive a fall of at least 15 feet unhurt. I knew to watch out for falling coconuts; I was not warned about the Crabs!

The Crab’s color varies by island, ranging from orange-red to purplish blue, with blue as the predominant color. The pincers are powerful and the Crab often keeps its hold for extended periods of time.

The two we saw were blue; This is the one we saw on Tutuila

Their only predators are other Coconut Crabs and humans. Eaten as a delicacy on some islands, the Coconut Crab is taboo on others. This may be because, if it eats certain plants and animals, it can become toxic.

But, enough about this incredible beast …

Let’s get back to the hike

Along the path, we saw bugs that, at first we thought were red (really red!) ants ...

... but they were actually Cotton Stainers

Cotton Stainers are a weevil that feeds on cotton plant seeds and bolls, leaving behind permanent yellow or brown stains on the white cotton fibers. Of course, cotton isn’t grown on Olosega.

But the Cotton Stainer is pretty common

This bug is also called a Darth Maul bug …

I see it! Right photo: Wikipedia

When we made it to Sili, I was less interested in the abandoned village that in the surrounding area …

Especially the beautiful Green Jewel flies I found perching on bright yellow flowers

... and an abandoned boat on the shore

Sili was a bustling village before 1981, when massive waves forced its evacuation. Now, it is slowly being taken over by jungle. The inhabitants moved to Olosega, but the family still owns the land in Sili.

What was left behind

The geography of the two islands – steep mountains that descend directly into the ocean interspersed with occasional flat areas and beaches makes the entire population vulnerable to the ocean.

Not much protection

After our Sili hike, we continued on to the town of Olosega.

Village sign

In the Village where we stopped and bought some snacks in the local store, which was roughly the size of a large closet.

Yard decoration in Olosega

The morning gave us our only time on Olosega, which is a beautiful island, with ...

Jungle

Ocean

Mountains

A New Friend

As we were heading back to the lodge for lunch, it started to rain (yay, my poncho!) and we encountered a young man (obviously not Samoan) who was sheltering under a tree. Peter offered to give him a ride to the lodge and that’s how we adopted Harry for the rest of our time on Ofu.

Left to right: Harry, Jack and Amber

Harry was a 28-year-old British lawyer at the end of a two-month South Pacific sojourn before starting a new job with an American law firm in London. He was a delight, sharing information on Samoa, Palau, Singapore and other places he had visited. He was staying at a cottage somewhere in Olosega but was thrilled to share meals with us.

Not a problem; we never made more than a dent in our giant meals

In the afternoon after the Olosega trip, we went snorkeling.

Snorkeling

We had one group snorkeling adventure on Ofu’s most-photographed beach, called, simply, Ofu Beach.

You have probably seen Ofu Beach on National Park materials; Photo: Caty Stevens

By adventure, I mean that we drove a short distance and snorkeled. Caty and I both had cameras geared for underwater, so we failed to take as many photos of this stretch of beach as we should.

And, this is the money shot on Ofu

We planned to go back, but never did.

Me underwater; Photo: Caty Stevens

The water was some of the clearest we have seen and there were lots of fish.

Manybar Goatfish and Threespot Wrasses; Photo: Caty Stevens

Because there was some cloud cover, my underwater camera did not do a particularly good job of capturing how pretty it was.

A little post work cleaned it up!

Caty had borrowed Becca’s SeaLife SportDiver cell phone case and got great shots.

I wish this shot of Caty had been sharper

She, of course, also has better spotting skills than I do. Here’s some of what we saw.

CW: South Seas Devil Damselfish, Parrotfish, Checkerboard Wrasse, Banded Sergeant, Brown Surgeonfish, Sixbar Wrasse, South Seas Devil Damselfish, Convict Tang; Photos: Caty Stevens

Giant Clam; Photo: Caty Stevens

Spectacled Butterflyfish and South Seas Devil Damselfish; Photos: Caty Stevens

Bird Wrasse and South Seas Devil Damselfish; Photo: Caty Stevens

Wrasse and Honeycomb Grouper; Photos: Caty Stevens

Lemonpeel Angelfish; Right photo: Caty Stevens

Tiger Cowrie; Photo: Caty Stevens

Blue Linckia Sea Star; Photos: Caty Stevens

Sea Cucumbers; Left photos: Caty Stevens

We left the beach when the rest of the group appeared to be finished, but we really weren’t ready.

Why would you leave?

In retrospect, we should have stayed and walked back.

So pretty; Photos: Caty Stevens

The Paths Not Taken and Taken

The next day was a bit frustrating because the main activity offered was a hike up Tumutumu Mountain (the tallest mountain on Ofu). The description: 1,500 feet elevation gain in 2.5 miles; slippery; five miles round-trip; great views.

There were only three takers among the eight of us (and Jack only hiked because Amber told him to). Harry joined the hike because he was 28 years old!

Guide, Bill, Amber, Jack, Harry and Guide

Caty and I were among the non-takers based on the description.

Plus, it was sunny and much hotter than previous days

The reason the day was frustrating was that the hike still set the schedule and they didn’t get started until after 9:00 a.m.! In heat like that, 6:00 a.m. might have been a better call.

After waiting to take the hikers to meet their guides and waiting for them to take off, the rest of us went to the town of Ofu, just west of the lodge, to look around.

It didn't seem like a planned activity, rather just killing time

Don't get me wrong, I loved the sights, but we could have covered Ofu and done a lot more if we had completely separated from the hikers.

The road is not paved/concrete here; just dirt

We went to Ofu Harbor, a small boat facility opened in 1975. It was the first harbor built in American Samoa by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers.

It features a 610-foot-long rock breakwater and a 220-foot-long entrance channel

While there, we saw ...

The natural harbor

Locals fishing ...

... and catching

A distant view of a NOAA research trip (I wonder if they still have adequate funding)

Parrotfish just under the surface; Right: Caty's photos of Parrotfish taken when snorkeling

Then, as we headed back for lunch, saw the best of Ofu, including the gorgeous water and offshore islands.

This is what a tropical island should look like

Nu'utele, which looks like an elephant or dog sticking its snout into the water

Coconut palms on the tiny strip between the road and the water

The smaller island of Nu'usilaelae

We walked a bit, admiring ...

Giant trees

A tranquil beach

A shallow cove

Juvenile Samoan Starlings begging for food from a parent

Flowers

Another view of Nu'utele

When Peter described the hike, he kept saying that the group would be back at lunchtime. We were skeptical: hot day, five miles, 1,500 feet. No way they could do that in three hours. And, they didn’t. So, we waited around until they finally returned, hot, drained and bruised.

Caty and I did briefly snorkel at the beach across from the lodge while waiting, which I shared in my last post. But, if the non-hikers had been given more consideration (as opposed to just waiting for the hikers), we could have snorkeled ...

Either back at Ofu Beach ...

or at Āsaga Strait

Or maybe in Ofu Town

When they returned, the hikers shared a few facts that weren’t told to us when we were asked if we wanted to do the hike: it was very slippery (everyone fell at least once; Bill fell four times); there was no real trail (the two local guides cut a path through jungle with machetes); they had to climb up a rope to reach the summit. Decision not to go validated.

The trail; Left and right: AllTrails; Middle: NPS

Now, on the other side of the argument was their picture of the view. Yes, it was spectacular.

Jack, Amber and Bill at the top

And, they were rewarded with a rainbow.

That is gorgeous; Photo: Amber

But, I would have died before then!

I would have hated to miss this

Circumnavigation

The late afternoon was my favorite part of our trip to Ofu/Olosega and it was not part of the planned itinerary. Peter arranged for a local chief to take us around the island on his boat.